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THE JOYS OF BEAGLING 2 (Breeding and Welphing)







ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 18, 2010, 3:08 AM

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PICTURE PAINTS A THOUSAND WORDS.


Kindly refrain from making any comment and posting for now, as we are still preparing the content. Thanking you all in anticipation for your kind cooperation....Cheers!


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 18, 2010, 3:33 AM)
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ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 18, 2010, 8:59 AM

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Heman male Beagle (tri-color)
Lemon female Beagle (lemon white)


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 18, 2010, 9:07 AM)
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ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 18, 2010, 11:17 PM

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Correction: Welphing should be spelled as WHELPING

THE JOYS OF BEAGLING 2 (Breeding and Whelping)




ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 19, 2010, 12:52 AM

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Whelping puppies is not always easy. Sometimes it takes a experienced helping hand. Some breeds whelp easy, and some do not. Even some lines of the same breed, will free whelp easy, and other lines and pedigree seems to have repetitive problems.



History...
Humans have maintained populations of useful animals around their places of habitat since pre-historic times.They have intentionally fed dogs considered useful, while neglecting or killing others, thereby establishing a relationship between humans and certain types of dog over thousands of years. Over these millennia, domesticated dogs have developed into distinct types, or groups, such as livestock guardian dogs, hunting dogs, and sighthounds. To maintain these distinctions, humans have intentionally mated dogs with certain characteristics to encourage those characteristics in the offspring.

Through this process, hundreds of dog breeds have been developed. Initially, the ownership of working and, later, purebred dogs, was a privilege of the wealthy. Nowadays, many people can afford to buy a dog. Some breeders chose to breed purebred dogs, while some prefer to produce crossbred dogs, claiming that the outcross is healthier than original breeds, and avoiding linebreeding or inbreeding.


Registries...

Breeders may report the birth of a litter of puppies to a dog registry, such as MKA to record it in stud books and receive according documents for the puppies. Such registries maintain records of dogs’ lineage, accenting on achievements and working qualities, and usually are affiliated with kennel clubs. Maintaining the correct data is vitally important for purebred dog breeding. When the breeder has access to records, he shall be able to analyze the pedigrees and understand what traits to expect and what to avoid, while choosing inbreeding or to outcross. Requirements for the breeding of registered purebreds vary between breeds, countries, kennel clubs and registries. In general, the rules are formulated to benefit either a certain breed, or different breeds of dogs, and breeders have to abide the rules of certain organization to participate in its breed maintenance and development programs. The rules may apply to the health of the dogs, such as joint x-rays, hip certifications, and eye examinations; to working qualities, such as passing a special test or achieving at a trial; to general conformation, such as evaluation of a dog by a breed expert.


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 19, 2010, 1:06 AM)
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ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 19, 2010, 9:17 AM

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Genetic defects...

Some dogs have certain inheritable characteristics, that can develop into a disability or disease. Excessive wear of hip joint or bone, known as hip dysplasia is one such condition. As well, some eye abnormalities, heart conditions, deafness, are proven to be inherited.

There have been extensive studies of these conditions, commonly sponsored by breed clubs and dog registries, while breed clubs provide information of common genetic defects for according breed. As well, special organizations, such as Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, collect data and provide it to breeders, as well as to the general public.

Some registries, such as AKC include records of absence of certain genetic defects, known as certification, into dog’s individual records. For example, the GSD National Breed Club in Germany is a registry that recognizes that hip dysplasia is a genetic defect for the dogs of this breed. Accordingly, it requires all dogs to pass evaluation for absence of Hip Dysplasia in order to register their progeny, and records the results in individual dog‘s pedigrees.


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 19, 2010, 9:34 AM)


ACC
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Feb 19, 2010, 7:30 PM

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So you want to breed...

Your dog passes conformation, temperament, health, genetic testing. First you have to find a compatible / non related Stud, with all the same background testing as your female, i.e. conformation, temperament, health, genetic testing and good non related pedigree.

The general goal, when you breed, would be to better the breed. That is the MAIN reason to breed.

Breeding is NOT as easy as it looks. Lack of experience can risk the life of your dam, and having puppies just so your children may witness the miracle of birth can sometimes go badly. Be prepared for anything that could happen, ask yourself: "How can I handle things if they go wrong? Is it worth it?" Breeders do not simply follow textbook instructions when whelping a litter because whelping right requires experience. There is no money to be found in breeding the right way, it is a hobby and usually costs money rather than makes money.


Many unexpected costs can break your bank, it is absolutely necessary to have funds set aside in case there is trouble with your dam during her pregnancy or whelping. Twenty-five percent (25%) of dog births end up middle-of-the-night c-sections, which adds up to a $1,000 vet bill just for the whelping. Fading puppies can also cost several thousand dollars to save, and it is very possible for puppies to contract viruses such as mild Cocciadia, Giardia, and the more serious threat of Parvo. It is possible your dam will not produce milk, or make too much and end up with Mastitis. Your dam could also hemorrhage.

The list of sad possibilities goes on and on. Are you ready for the financial and emotional burden breeding could become?


I am not even going to start hounding you on the millions of animals euthanized each year in shelters or that die on the streets. No one ever thinks this could happen to a litter they breed. I am going to tell you what makes a responsible breeder and the major effort that goes into ensuring the best, healthiest critters possible. Breeding is not just putting two cute dogs together and sixty-three days later you have cuddly pups. Responsible breeding requires work. It is not to be jumped into headfirst.


What A Responsible Breeder Does...

Knows the breed standard… Each dog has a standard accepted by a kennel club that states what the ideal specimen of that breed should look like. It covers fur to teeth, color to structure. A dog not fitting the standard will not be considered for breeding. Also, they get out and show the dogs. Just because you think the dog may fit the standard, does not mean it is a good breed representative. Only by having the dog evaluated many times can you truly get a feeling your dog is breeding material – this goes for males and females (what a dog show does as well as other competitions such a Schutzhund – I highly regard a dog who has achieved a SchIII – field trials, lure coursing, etc.). Even if a dog is top notch physically, meets the standard well, but has temperament issues (shy, aggressive), it will not be bred. Many breeders also want to prove their dogs have brains to match the beauty. There are various sports that test a dog’s working ability. A dog should have both form and function.

Know the pedigrees… Just because two dogs are great specimens does not mean they are compatible. Not all hereditary problems are a simple Dominant/Recessive gene thing. Some require a combination of multiple gene sequences before being expressed. So, two dogs could have parts of these sequences and if bred, the problem could be expressed though there is no sign in either dog’s background of the problem. Two great dogs also may not produce great puppies. A responsible breeder will research pedigrees and talk to other breeders to find the best possible matches. This can be a big undertaking. And just because a dog is winning all over the country does not mean he is the best. It may just mean he (or she) is being shown loads; chances are by a well-known handler, and everyone wants to breed to him (or get a pup from her). This dog may not be the best – just the most popular at the time. Do not be blinded by wins.

Know color inheritances… Some colors, like merles (blue or sable/red) should not be bred together. The merle gene, if doubled, can cause problems. Merle to merle breeding can be very bad…

Knows the dog… A responsible breeder will test dogs for things like hips, thyroid, eye problems (eye should be tested yearly on breeding stock) and whatever problems are common to your specific breed. If something is suspected, the dog is not bred. They also require testing for the dog they intend to breed to. There are also diseases such as brucellosis that can cause fetal abortion (miscarriage) in pregnant females – it is sexually transmitted – your dog must be clear of. Brucellosis does not always have outward symptoms, your dog could carry it and you never know. Your dog also must be current on all inoculations.

Accepts the risks... Breeding is not all happy. If you own a female, you must be willing to wait until she is physically mature to breed (about two years old). To breed too soon is like a teenage human having a child. They are not physically ready or emotionally. To breed to old is like a woman having her first child later in life. Males also must be at least two. You cannot get hips certified until they are two years old at least. Dogs of both genders must be fully mature and in top shape before breeding.

Must be willing to be in close contact with your vet… From the moment of mating, there is so much that can happen and that you should know. There are nutrition concerns – pregnancy and nursing is taxing on the female body. There are risk factors – some breeds are prone to birth complications and almost always require medical intervention.

Accepts responsibility for puppies… Puppies need to be with Mom for 8 weeks – in some areas it is illegal to sell or give away an animal younger. This means eight weeks of poop, piddle, and then the fun of a litter of pups playing with food as they grow. They will require vet exams and at least one set of shots before going to homes. Vet costs, feeding, time to socialize and clean up after, postnatal care of them and Mom all can be expensive. What if down the road your dog develops a problem, say starts having seizures. Are you willing to call everyone who bought a puppy from you and inform them? What if someone calls you down the road and cannot keep the puppy – now dog – what will you do? What health guarantee will you offer? What if someone’s puppy proves deaf, dysplastic, epileptic, what will you do? You brought the pups into the world; therefore, you are responsible.


Do not breed if you cannot devote the time and money to do it responsibly. If you cannot ensure good, loving homes for pups (they do not go to pet stores or get dumped at shelters or given to just anyone), do not breed!


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 19, 2010, 8:10 PM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 20, 2010, 8:20 AM

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IMPLICATIONS OF INBREEDING FOR THE DOG BREEDER

Most dog breeders are well aware of potential pitfalls associated with inbreeding although it is tempting for a novice to continue to use one or two closely related lines in order to preserve or improve type. Breeding to an unrelated line of the same breed (where possible) or outcrossing to another breed (where permissible) can ensure vigor. Despite the risk of importing a few undesirable traits which may take a while to breed out, outcrossing can prevent a breed from stagnating by introducing fresh genes into the gene pool. It is important to outcross to a variety of different dogs, considered to be genetically "sound" (do any of their previous offspring exhibit undesirable traits?) and preferably not closely related to each other.

How can you tell if a breed or line is becoming too closely inbred? One sign is that of reduced fertility in either males or females. Male dogs are known to have a low fertility rate. Small litter sizes and high puppy mortality on a regular basis indicates that the dogs may be becoming too closely related. The loss of a large proportion of dogs to one disease indicates that the dogs are losing/have lost immune system diversity. If 50% of individuals in a breeding program die of a simple infection, there is cause for concern.

Highly inbred dogs also display abnormalities on a regular basis as "bad" genes become more widespread. These abnormalities can be simple undesirable characteristics such as misaligned jaws (poor bite) or more serious deformities. Sometimes a fault can be traced to a single male or female which should be removed from the breeding program even if it does exhibit exceptional type. If its previous progeny are already breeding it's tempting to think "Pandora's Box is already open and the damage done so I'll turn a blind eye". Ignoring the fault and continuing to breed from the dog will cause the faulty genes to become even more widespread in the breed, causing problems later on if its descendants are bred together.

Inbreeding is a two-edged sword. On the one hand a certain amount of inbreeding can fix and improve type to produce excellent quality animals. On the other hand, excessive inbreeding can limit the gene pool so that the breed loses vigor. Breeds in the early stages of development are most vulnerable as numbers are small and the dogs may be closely related to one another. It is up to the responsible breeder to balance inbreeding against crossings with unrelated dogs in order to maintain the overall health of the line or breed concerned.



Hope to have given you a bit of food for thought.


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 20, 2010, 8:26 AM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 20, 2010, 7:38 PM

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Whelping Puppies (What to expect… )

The Female will show some of these signs or all of them. If your experience is not normal from things you have read, you should call your vet. Delaying HELP from a Vet could endanger your Dam and pups. This is a time to remember to be Safe rather than sorry.

First stage of Labor:

(This stage often goes un-noticed, and takes place in the 24 hours following temperature drop)

Temperature FINALLY drops to 36.7°C from its normal 37.2°, 37.8°, 38.3°C (you should have been taking it regularly for a few days)

If you are really committed, the temperature taking does work. You will find her temperature around 37.2° to 38.3°C, and as soon as it starts to drop, below 37.2°C, and continues to drop. (now you take it every hour or two) ;you have about 12-24 hours from the start of the drop. When it bottoms out, to 36.7° or 36.6°C, then you have about 2-12 hours.

You may find your dam much more restless, and not able to get comfortable. She will stretch out on her side. You may find her eyes different, they can dilate, and she can stare at you. She may not want you out of her site. She may go to her whelp box or a corner. She may vomit. She may try to have a bowel movement from the pressure. She may urinate frequent.She will refuse to eat, and seek a quite spot, like a closet or under a bed.She may have some mucus discharge, and her Vulva area will become puffier.

The normal body temperature for animals is generally higher than for humans. The normal temperature of a dog is 37.5° to 39.2°C. The normal temperature of a puppy at birth is 35.6° to 36.1°C. The temperature gradually increases with age until it is 37.8°C at 4 weeks of age.


Second Stage of Labor:

Your female may go to her whelp box, or couch, or wherever she has chosen to have her pups, & start digging.
She may start shivering and Panting, examining her rear, and licking her vulva.
She may have mild contractions, vomiting, pooping and urinating more.

Warning Signs: Twitching, green discharge. (Green discharge is only Normal AFTER a pup is born)

Third stage of Labor:

Water sacs present, and break
Shivering and Panting may continue and get stronger. AS well as digging.
Contractions will become stronger and closer together.
Vomiting, grunting and pushing.

Warning Signs: Pushing on a pup for over an hour causing exhaustion (more warning signs listed below)
Normal and preferred time, to push on one puppy that is in the birth canal, is 2 to 10 minutes.


A puppy 1/2 out and stuck and breech, must be pulled out, or it will drown. If pushing doesn't get this puppy out within a few minutes.


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 20, 2010, 8:01 PM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 21, 2010, 3:18 AM

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One must be prepared for some interesting scenarios:

It is a great tool to do x-rays on day 55/56, to determine size and number of puppies. x-rays can be done sooner, but later gives you more information on puppy size, and knowing that the last puppy is out is comforting. X-rays may show a large puppy, and then one can anticipate a difficult delivery, and have the Vet on call. (He should be on call either way, as you never know what problems may arise.) Like these large pups can get stuck in the birth canal. To help the pup along, grip the pup carefully with a clean dry towel, rotate it slightly from side to side and then as the Dam has a contraction, pull steadily downwards and across the Dams belly, towards her head. Stuck puppies are VERY common. They come out better with lubrication, the BEST way to get them out, is to have a feeding tube, and a syringe. Insert the syringe past the puppy, and push in k-y lubricating jelly.

The pup must come out:

It is also helpful to know, YOU CANNOT KILL a dead puppy, so you have nothing to loose, and everything to gain, by being aggressive and TRYING to save a stuck puppy, as if you leave it stuck , breach, then it will surely die.

Pre-Eclampsia/Eclampsia (which normally can happen 10 days after whelping, can also happen with a large litter, and more in toy breeds in the last few days of pregnancy. Hypocalcimic shaking & pre-labor shaking can seem the same at first), but if Dam is hypocalcimic, and gets eclampsia, the shaking quickly turns to Convulsions, muscle weakness, muscle tremors, spasms, rigidy and twitching needing immediate Vet assistance before seizures, coma and death.

Uterine Inertia can happen also with a large litter or large pups. She will fail with weak attempts to deliver the pups. She may not even show contractions as her uterus is too stretched.

Rupture of the Uterus, torsion or hemorrhage, can happen. The Dam will pass heavy , ongoing flow of blood, from Vulva, this is a medical Vet emergency.

Green Discharge- before puppy birth, means early separation of placentas. Call the Vet. Sometimes this is okay, if the puppy is to come soon, sometimes not. Normally we do not like to see green discharge until After a puppy is born.

If two pups try and come out at the same time, it is physically impossible. This may be a cause for concern. This presentation is best discussed with your Vet. It could be a medical emergency, or things could just fix themselves if you are comfortable waiting. Call your Vet for his advice, as every situation is different. This situation needs an experienced hand. Delivery could progress uneventful, or delivery could get held up and stop.

If you are comfortable to do an internal exam, this is the time. With a gloved finger, you must push the puppies, back up, every so gently. Often, if you push one puppy back, the other puppy will slide into the birth canal.


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 21, 2010, 3:20 AM)
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ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 22, 2010, 2:47 AM

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C-sections:


C-sections are always the last resort, and are sometimes unavoidable, like if two pups try to come out at once, or the puppies are too large to pass through, or if Dam is just too exhausted to carry on after failing to pass puppies. There are a wide variety of problems you may be confronted with. Keep your Vet posted of progress. Do NOT hesitate to call the Vet if you have questions. You are dealing with life and death and it is better to take all precautions. Do not feel guilty calling on your Vet several times if you are unsure what to do (best bring the Dam to the Vets place). He is the professional. On Day 58 you should also start taking Dams temp 3 times per day. A Dams temp will drop from the normal 38.6° to around 36.7°Cdegrees when the first stage of labor begins. Hard labor usually begins within 24 hours of this temp drop.

As soon as you know your Dam is in pre-labor, it is wise to contact your Vet to make sure he is on call. There are so many scenarios. In case of anything out of the ordinary, consult your Vet. This section is here to let you know, that you can have 6 different litters, and be given 6 different scenarios. Some books say do not let your pup have heavy contractions for more than ½ hour without producing a pup, some say 3 hours. Some say 4. Each Whelping is different. You cannot put time limits on, as every situation is different. You must study, and know the warning signs of problems and there are many. If something doesn't seem right, contact your Vet. ""Sooner is Better than Later""

Even after the whelping is finished, problems can come. A new Mom, may have doubts about these puppy things, especially if she had a hard whelping. The faster you get all the pups nursing the better. They will get the needed colostrums, and the Dam will produce hormones that will actually turn her into a better loving mom. Keep her fluids up, and give her a bowl of warm broth. Some puppies do not take to nursing, BE PREPARED to be up around the clock. Feeding a slow starting puppy that just will not nurse. Have Canine Puppy milk replacer on hand. Hand feeding one puppy happens, but the worst one must prepare for is feeding an orphaned litter.
Are you Prepared to do this as a breeder ?????????? There are so many questions to ask yourself before you breed your Dam, as very frequently things go wrong, and being prepared and educated can save your Dam and puppies lives.



Premature delivery: Pups born before day 58, have a low survival rate, as the lungs are not developed.


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 22, 2010, 3:04 AM)
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alanblastrac
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Feb 23, 2010, 6:16 PM

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wow luvly pics of all your dogs .


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 23, 2010, 6:21 PM

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Kindly refrain comment for now, these topic yet to be conclude. Tq


alanblastrac
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Feb 23, 2010, 6:27 PM

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OKIE DOKIE


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 28, 2010, 11:59 PM

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Whelping Puppies (Birth to 3 weeks)…



The pups can be so strong, that when the Dam stands up, they can hang on and get dragged out of the whelping box; make sure your set-up prevents this.

At this stage, it is important to check for swollen teats, and make sure you put a pup on the full teats to prevent mastitis; an excess of milk, may cause the Dam to become restless and uncomfortable. She may refuse to nurse her pups. You may need to draw off a little milk first to relieve the pressure, unless it is SO swollen and hot, hard and red and you think mastitis is set in. Mastitis is an infection of the milk gland. If you suspect mastitis, It is a myth, to not put the pups on to the infected teat. ""Call your vet as soon as possible, as in advanced stages you will need an antibiotic"". You will need to massage and drain the teat.

Pups should start gaining right away - 0 to 20 grams the first day. Watch for puppies who's weight goes down. Pups should double their birth weight at 8 to 11 days.

Remember the Nutritional requirements of the Dam while nursing is Very High. It is wise to add vitamins to the Diet with larger litters, and keep the Dam on high quality puppy food. A lack of fluids in the diet, will lower her milk supply, so make sure there is always fresh water available.

In the first 3 to 4 weeks, the Dam will totally care for the puppies. She will feed them clean them, and totally clean up after them. Keep puppy nails trimmed so they do not tear at the Dam with sharp claw tips.

Day 3 or 4 after birth:

The Dam may develop diarrhea, this is often from cleaning up puppy waste. A call to the vet is recommended in case it is something more serious.

Pups should be weighed twice daily for the first few days.

Put the pups who are slower gainers on the teats for a head start or put the smaller pups on the larger teats. IF there are 5 pups, and 8 teats, then a few times a day, you can make sure the smaller puppies get to drain 2 teats. If you do not do this, then the big puppies, ALWAYS get 2 teats, and gain weight even more rapidly. It is intervening, but it works very well to pick up the slower puppies.

After the birth, the dam's hair always falls out, while she is raising a litter. Up to 60% of it, but normally 40%.Likely happens to help cool them, this is normal and it can come out in chunks. If too much hair falls out too fast, she could be lacking something in her diet. Sometimes you will not notice much hair at all come out. Some loose it gradually, some all of the sudden.

The whelping box is only good for the first 3 weeks, then they need a mini home which includes potty station and of course a play area too. They are now ready to start being housetrained. Breeders that use the partition method will teach their pups the concept of house training before they leave for their new homes.


At 3 weeks:

The pups are becoming more mobile. They are beginning to venture out to explore and relieve themselves, to a papered area twice the size of their whelp box. At this time, keep the bed clean and smelling fresh, but only change the paper minimal (underneath kennel board) but clean the surface and bottom area. They learn to go outside to eliminate very quickly, as by day 21, they have developed their sense of smell, and will start to discriminate where to relieve themselves. They can now eliminate without stimulation, the Dam should still continue to clean up after them. Could also help by cleaning, and the Dam would appreciates it very much.

They are beginning to play a little with themselves and littermates, and are becoming more aware of their environment, and slightly vocal. At times you hear the odd attempt at a bark.


That concludes the topic on breeding and whelping; The Joys Of Beagling 2….Cheers!




(This post was edited by ACC on Mar 1, 2010, 12:42 AM)
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ACC
K9 Servant


Sep 19, 2010, 12:06 AM

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